A hundred years ago a lot of people made their very own clothing or hired a tailor or dressmaker to help make clothes for them.
Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1900-01, p. 3.
Imagine a clothes catalogue who has 2 or 3 drawings for the kinds of garments carried. To purchase a dress or suit, you might be instructed to spell it out what you need: the sort of apparel, color, material, style, and approximate cost. You have to indicate whether you’re young or “matronly, ” and have now any “peculiarity of form. ” You might also need to submit twenty split dimensions of the human anatomy.
A hundred years back, you would certainly have been delighted! Think about the alternative: You will have to result in the clothes your self, or pay a tailor or dressmaker to do this at greater price.
Today, hardly any of us have actually our garments created and sewn for all of us separately. We purchase clothes from the rack. But, through to the mechanization associated with clothes industry within the belated nineteenth century, clothes had been produced by hand to match a person that is particular.
To custom-make a waist or skirt(blouse), Eaton’s needed a description or illustration through the client. The catalogue illustrations served as motivation. Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1899, p. 12.
The mail-order catalogue had been an important catalyst for the change from custom-made russian brides in america to clothing that is ready-made. The very first catalogues competed with tailors and dressmakers by offering made-to-order products. 20 years later on, but, the mail-order organizations shut their customized dressmaking and millinery workrooms and started customers that are offering clothes produced by device within the growing amounts of clothing factories. Each step associated with the process associated with the means, Eaton’s had to reassure its clients – who had been familiar with having their clothes custom-made by a dressmaker or tailor – that the mail-order catalogue ended up being a appropriate alternative.
“We Supply Everything to create Your Very Own”
The Eaton’s issued its first catalogue in 1884 in response to an “immense increase” in orders from customers through the mail. The catalogue ended up being just all of the the forms of product offered into the shop: carpets, blankets, material, underclothing such as for instance corsets and crinolines, and, needless to say, clothing add-ons no woman must be without: fans, gloves, handkerchiefs, parasols.
Eaton’s began as a dry products shop, holding materials, clothes add-ons, and household furnishings – as mirrored when you look at the very early catalogues. Soon it could add many diverse products much like today’s emporium. Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1884, p. 34 (reprint).
Eaton’s cautioned: “a female goes pretty shabbily dressed before she’s going to walk the roads on a summer time time with no parasol. ” Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1893-94, p. 76.
A sizable an element of the catalogue ended up being devoted to “dress items, ” or materials, such as for instance flannels, velvets, black colored crape (for mourning), silk and im im printed cottons; needles, thread, buttons and other sewing notions; and, gown trimmings such as for example lace and braid – every thing a female will have to make her very own and her family members’ clothes. Eaton’s also provided dressmaking patterns.
Velveteen ended up being an extravagance material useful for anything from fancy child’s matches to gowns evening. Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1898, p. 6.
Having a death into the household, ladies had been necessary to wear black colored for 90 days to per year. Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1889-1890, p. 15.
Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1897-98, p. 3.
Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1897, p. 9.
Clients had been instructed to spell it out their requirements, as an example, “we want one thing in gray for the travelling dress, to not ever go beyond 75 cents a yard, as well as a basic concept in appropriate trimming. ” Eaton’s would then send examples of materials and trim, from where a selection would be made by the customer.
Butterick had been a dressmaking pattern business and published a fashion magazine that is leading. Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1900, p. 193.
“Or We Are Going To Allow It To Be for your needs”
Once a girl received the textile and trim from Eaton’s, she’d then need to result in the garment. The majority of women could make dresses that are simple wear in the home. But, if she could pay for it, a girl used a specialist dressmaker to sew her formal costume, which, within the belated nineteenth century, ended up being elaborate in construction and materials. Frequently, it contained a tight-fitting bodice adorned with braid and buttons and a multi-layered dress draped with fringed velvet or silk. Ladies relied upon the special abilities of dressmakers – or “lady tailors” because they had been often called – within the fitting and draping of this fabrics that are costly.
Eaton’s competed with this market. In 1898, it established its “Dressmaking and women’ Tailoring Order Department” so as to woo away customers – specially females residing in little villages or in the united states – from tiny dressmakers and tailors: “Ladies located in the part that is remotest of Canada have actually every benefit of the most recent fashions as though staying in Toronto. All work of definitely the quality that is best, beneath the direction of this foremost Modiste in Canada. “
“Fit and Finish Guaranteed. We’re practical Mail Purchase Dressmakers. ” Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1898, p. 5.
“Send us your purchase along with your dressmaking stress is finished. ” Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1899, p. 9.
Elaborate trimmings included fancy ribbons, egret feathers, and birds that are even whole. Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1896-97, p. 15.
Eaton’s made hats to purchase, aswell. Since no girl would endeavor outside her house without having a hat, ladies needed to have at the very least two caps – one for the fall/winter period plus one for springtime/summer. The enormous caps had been sustained by a foundation that is intricate of wires covered in fabric and draped with rich materials festooned with feathers or silk flowers.
When it comes to summer time, straw caps trimmed with plumes and silk plants had been popular. Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1897, p. 15.
Decoration in the gown regarding the fin-de-siecle lady had been surpassed only by that on her behalf hat. Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1893-94, p. 20.
By operating a large workroom of milliners, Eaton’s surely could keep costs down. Eaton’s Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1888-89, p. 18.
This crucial of this woman’s attire supplied ratings of women with act as milliners, or women’ cap manufacturers. Numerous milliners, like dressmakers, worked in little stores with 1 or 2 young apprentices. Eaton’s had its very own millinery workrooms with “an enormous staff. ” Eaton’s reassured perhaps sceptical clients it was appropriate to order caps by mail: “Millinery is straightforward to purchase by mail if you should be careful in buying. Clever clerks devote their entire time and energy to anticipate the desires and desires of mail purchase clients. “
Eaton’s Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1898, p. 27.
Clients had been encouraged to provide step-by-step explanations of this style, color, product, cutting, and cost of cap desired, in addition to information on how old they are, height, and weight. Hats had been matched to human anatomy kinds, and presumably women were more honest in those times, whether they certainly were “stout or slim. Given that they had been asked to convey” Illustrations of test caps into the catalogues had been designed to offer clients a basic idea of just exactly just what Eaton’s needed to provide.